The saw is a valuable workshop tool, but it is also very dangerous so it is very necessary to know how to use a table saw. Make certain you know how to use it calmly. We will show you useful techniques for using your table saw. Use these components to make straight, clean and safe cuts on your next woodworking project. You can cut extra wide, extra long, and extra thick wood without any issues.

how to use a table saw

 How to Use a Table Saw Safely

Weatherboards help keep boards straight

When it is hard to keep boards arranged with fences, take out feather boards for straight, smooth cuts. Feather boards have some wood made “fingers” that hold wood firmly against the saw fence.

The fingers are a little bit versatile and cut at a place, so they allow you to push the wood through while keeping company, even pressure. They also dig in and keep wood in place if it begins to back. They are a great “third hand” when you want the flawless rip. Just push the feather boards firmly against the wood 1 to 3 in. Before the saw blade, and then clamp it tightly to the saw table.

It should be simple to push the wood forward but hard to get it back. Besides, when you are taking large boards, I suggest you add a second clamp for additional firm pressure on the board.

Make your feather boards from 2-feet. The length of knot-free 1 x 4. Cut one end at 45 levels. Then cut some 4-in.-long kerfs every 1/8 to 1/4 in. (narrower on firm hardwoods, broader on softwoods)—thin enough so the long fingers bend a little bit.

Set up simple out grain support

Trying to rip the last few feet of long boards without an assistant at the other end is almost impossible. A costly roller support can fix the problem. However, if you do not have one, set up a brief out grain support with clamps, two 2 x 4s, and ply board. The 2 x 4s held to the saw table keep the ply board absolutely in line with the table surface area. The boards you are cutting will glide onto the support without being trapped.

To build a brief out grain table, clamp two 8-feet.-long 2 x 4s to the saw table, cantilevering them roughly 5 feet. Over the out grain part. Then clamp or connect  1/4-in. Ply board to the end of the 2 x 4s.

Keep in mind that this works only with contractor-size and larger table saws with large iron or steel tables. It could cause less large bench-top saws to tip or bend.

Add fencing to the miter gauge for better crosscuts

The narrow size of most miter indicators offers poor support when you are crosscutting, especially when you are cutting at a place. For better screw, connect a wood fence to the miter gauge.

Use a straight 1 x 3 or 1 x 4, and ensure it is high enough so that the blade will not cut it entirely off. It is simple to add a detachable stop block to make several cuts or change the place makes miter cuts. On the other hand, always double-check the precision and the accuracy of the miter gauge with a protractor or square before you make any cuts.

To avoid kickbacks and blinding when you are cutting, always push the work piece and fence absolutely past the blade. Then turn the saw off before taking fences back and removing recently cut items.

Hang on a long fence for long boards

Keeping a long, large boards or a full piece of ply board limited against a short fence is a task, especially when you work alone. It is all too simple for the wood to walk away from fences, damaging the cut or causing the blade to combine and leave kickbacks along the edges. To avoid these issues, clamp a long level or long, straight boards to fences. The longer fences, the easier it is to keep the wood solidly against it.Use one 50 percent fence for complicated grain

Wood with wavy or knots grain and wood that has been dry unevenly will often high poorly as you rip it. If the half sections bend external side, one will push against fences and cause a kickback, an irregular cut or burn marks.

If this begins to happen, clamp a straight, smooth length of 3/4-in. Wood against fences, finishing at the center of the saw blade. This 50 percent fence provides the trapped piece room for bending without push it to the back of the blade. Possess the several pushes, so you can work around the clamps and finish the cut efficiently.

Save your fingers with Push sticks

If you find your side within a foot of the saw blade, it is the perfect chance to reach for a push stick. This vital saw equipment is notched to connect well over the end of the boards. You can then push it on through and keep it down solidly at once. It allows you to finish a straight cut and keep your hands well away from the blade.

It is best to keep at least these two designs useful. Use the narrow, long push stick for smaller, less large boards and smaller cuts. Also, use the wide, flat push stick for broader, bulkier boards when you need to apply more downwards pressure.

Use 1/2-in. Ply board for push sticks. It is light, hard and it will not be divided as efficiently wood. However, do not think twice to make numerous different thicknesses and designs to use in unique situations. Personalize your push sticks with different handles, not so deep steps, or pieces of rubber or sandpaper for better grabbing.

Cut crooked boards with a ply board straightedge

The most beautiful components of wood at the lumberyard are not always straight and smooth. However, cleaning up those steep angles is not difficult. To straighten up out crooked boards; connect it well to straight removes of ply board. Then run the boards through the saw with the ply board against fences. Your boards will now have a straight, smooth part to support against fences when you are taking it to size.

Plywood straightedges are also useful for making tapers. Only indicate the preferred blend on your boards, arrange it with the edge of the ply board, connect it in place, and cut.